We are gathered around a rustic wooden table, surrounded by shelves stacked with wine as we watch Stefano wind the Ferrari of meat slicers into action, producing perfect pieces of speck. Glasses of Cuvée Marianne are poured, and we toast to our Dolomiti ski safari. Stefano is the owner and host of White Deer San Lorenzo Mountain Lodge, our first stop and one of the area’s only private chalets. He’s also a man with an infectious passion for the surrounding mountains, the land and all its small-butmighty producers, whose love for their work can be tasted in every bite and sip.

It doesn’t take long to appreciate that the Dolomites offer its guests a new kind of luxury. Not fast cars and jeroboams, but a quietly authentic experience that’s increasingly hard to come by, and by no means limited to skiing. The lodge is beautiful but simple, traditional but stylish. Dinner is hearty and local – fonduta ravioli and venison with polenta – each course paired with wines (including the local lagrein grape) and finished off with Stefano’s homemade limoncello. We sleep easily, hearts and bellies full.